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The OG Birkin Bag Is At Sotheby’s

12-06-2025
by Martha Ioakimidi
And we’re OBSESSED!

It’s no secret that the Hermes Birkin bag has been the top handle tote to end all others. No matter how much time passes, the legendary blueprint left behind by Jean-Louis Dumas and actress Jane Birkin has captivated the hearts of fashion lovers and collectors worldwide. The Birkin prototype, crafted for its namesake, is currently being exhibited at Sotheby’s headquarters in New York before it is auctioned off to the highest bidder in the Fashion Icons auction at the end of this month. What are the key differences the fashion house decided on for the iconic bag and what does the prototype reveal about Jane Birkin herself?

 

Jane Birkin — environmentalist before it was cool

Way before second-hand shopping and “clean girl” living became trendy, the French actress/singer Jane Birkin was that girl, dedicated her life to advocating for veganism, gender equality, climate awareness and putting an end to animal cruelty. She often used her coveted Hermes bag to bring attention to different philanthropic organizations by adorning it with stickers and proudly carrying it everywhere, disheveled and almost falling apart. Her aesthetic was a blend of quintessential Parisienne and tomboy, which is probably why the Birkin bag ended up becoming such a fabulous unisex quota bag.

 

Fun fact: she was fiercely against the bag being used as a status symbol, and that is why she decided to auction off her own used Birkins for charity. Let this inspire you to wear your favorite leather accessories everywhere, any time, any place! Just think: WWJBD?

 

What changed in the Birkin we know now? 

The prototype was crafted similar to the Haute A Courroies, a bag created for carrying horse riding equipment. The muse’s sole request: a bag that can fit anything and can still close. Today’s Birkin bags have specific sizes and measurements, but the original Birkin was actually a hybrid size. It has a 35cm width but also the depth of a Birkin 40, giving it a slightly different shape. 

 

Of course the number one biggest difference is the shoulder strap attached to the flap closure of the bag. Why wasn’t it kept in the final version? Our best guess is practicality. In an interview, Jane Birkin herself explained that due to the bag being made out of leather the shoulder strap was uncomfortable most times, so she stopped using it altogether and simply carried the bag by the top handles (or under her arm like a giant, overflowing clutch). There was a limited edition Birkin released with a detachable shoulder strap, but the best shoulder-friendly Birkin is undoubtedly the Jean Paul Gaultier AKA Shoulder Birkin. 

 

Other key differences worth noting: the OG bag has gilded-bronze hardware instead of gold-plated like we’re used to, the embossed J.B. , and closed metal rings which were definitely made partly open for accessibility purposes. While the original design was definitely iconic in its own way, the final version is definitely better suited for everyday life. Why else would there only be one, unique OG Birkin?

 

All we know about the Fashion Icons auction

The highly anticipated auction will be taking place July 10th in Paris, and according to Sotheby’s “includes iconic pieces from landmark couture collections by Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Azzedine Alaïa.”

 

With the Birkin bag taking center stage, the rest of the auction lots have not been revealed to the public BUT it’s safe to say we expect to find ourselves starstruck by the entire lineup.

 

Dreaming about seeing the prototype that started it all? It will be exhibited on select dates in Sotheby’s Paris beginning of July, located on the Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré. You may think that street sounds familiar… that’s because Hermès’ historic flagship boutique is also located there. Icons all around!


The takeaway: OG you!

You know what’s more powerful than a woman carrying a Birkin bag? A woman becoming the new blueprint to aspire to. Whether you buy that Mint Vintage authenticated black Birkin or any luxury bag — wear it with confidence and wear it your way. Clean, dirty, bejeweled with charms and bobbles or stuffed with groceries. You do you. 

 

Be your own authentic self, stand tall and choose sustainability by buying second-hand.